Tiramisu: a time-honored tradition

Tiramisu: a time-honored tradition

All the ingredients come together to make it one of those desserts that, under the weight of popularity, has become legendary. So much so that the tiramisu machine got carried away and spawned trends and fashions that overstepped boundaries and achieved a kind of versatility, like pizza or hamburgers did before it.

Controversy over origin, controversy over the authenticity of a recipe, controversy over key ingredients, verification of regional variations or vilification of the evolution of the original recipe, international competition: every expert has a responsibility to contribute to the debate.
As for paternity, hold on, because you have to get up early to find a legend, a real one, or at least one that will go down in gastronomy history books.

Dessert of legends

Indeed, Veneto and Friuli Venezia Giulia are fighting a real battle over the parentage of this dessert based on biscuit, coffee, mascarpone and cocoa powder, each of which has its own history.
What is certain is that the mythology is not antediluvian, as versions of tiramisu date back to the early 20th century, in particular, when a chef from Treviso named Loli once escaped mascarpone in a mixture of sugar and eggs. The recipe would have taken its final form after the addition of spoonfuls of biscuit, coffee and cocoa.
Linguistic side, again uncertainties. The word tiramisu comes from the expression “tirimi su”, meaning “to cheer up”, after a group of walkers gathered around a hotel table returning from a hike in the Venetian outback found this cake especially invigorating.

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hellish pickup

A much less tasty version than the one that originated in brothels near Trieste. There, the courtesans and their lovers liked to “pull up” or “pull up”, after the effort of tasting the famous sweet and generous desserts. So much so that some credit tiramisu with the power of an aphrodisiac. Verify…

In the end, these quarrels seem very picrocholine, and these searches for identity are completely useless, since the traditional recipe today seems shaken up, revised, rethought. Indeed, by browsing social media, we understand that tiramisu has become the star of Instagram and Tik Tok accounts.
Thus, we do not disdain any impudence and no longer have thousands of options, sometimes very far from the original spirit, but visually more sexual than the other. Are they decorated with red fruits, apples or pineapples?; there, made from speculoos, Nutella, or pink biscuits from Reims. Moreover, savory tiramisu appeared, alternating between avocado, salmon or shrimp bases.

Calibration for networks

It is the ingredients that are often at the center of a legitimacy crisis. Without pretending to be an exegete, Stéphane Caillaux of the Italian restaurant Les Puilles in the heart of Limoges advocates the use of quality products and, where possible, Italian terroirs in order to stay as close to the original spirit as possible.
“The recipe is based on simple ingredients: sugar, eggs, mascarpone, coffee, alcohol such as amaretto or marsala, and savoiardi, an authentic Italian spoon cookie. After that, no one can imagine himself as the owner of the only and true recipe?; therefore it is difficult to have elements of comparison, ”admits this lover and connoisseur of cuisines from around the world.
In Puglia, Marion Champo, a young chef, prepares desserts. “The idea is to offer tiramisu that is both light and delicious. Trying to avoid the too heavy and nauseating side of having too much mascarpone or too much alcohol. Another difficulty is finding the right balance so that the texture is neither too dry and stuffy nor too runny, risking a spongy finish that doesn’t hold together,” she explains.

Pitfalls, which the cook from Auvergne carefully got rid of, as her tiramisu turns out to be airy and generous. Perhaps she owes this perfect balance to those two layers of homemade savoiardi (which Marion makes herself)?? Or to this alleged choice to limit the proportion of sugar, just to better understand the subtle union between the voracity of mascarpone and the elegant bitterness of chocolate and mocha??

Be that as it may, his tiramisu delights our taste buds and gives us a hint of that “dolce vita” that reminds us of those holidays on the shores of the great Italian lakes or Tuscany.

Wine

Lambrusco Rosso Del Emilia. While tasting tiramisu or another dessert at Les Puilles restaurant in Limoges, you may be succumbing to the craving for ristretto or limoncello. You can also choose Lambrusco Rosso Dell’Emilia on the advice of Stéphane Cailliau.
This wine, made from the local Lambrusco grape variety, comes from Emilia-Romagna, a region in northern Italy that is partly home to the Po Plain.
This red wine is distinguished by the fact that it is slightly effervescent (as a result of natural fermentation).

An elegant and full-bodied ruby-colored wine with wonderful fruity aromas. But what seduces most of all is this freshness (served at a temperature of about 10°) and this lightness, supported by the sparkling side, the effervescence that does not prevent you from appreciating this wonderful persistent aftertaste.
It pairs perfectly with your salads, pasta dishes, appetizers, pizza or desserts.

Product

Johncheiks. Its name is the result of an abbreviation between La Jonchère (a small town in the heart of Monts d’Ambazac) and Mas de Feix, the surname of its creators, Lou and Natalie. Joncheix is ​​made from whole raw milk from farm raised cows. Pressed cheese with a flowering rind matures on the spot in the stone cellar of the family home. There are several options: young (about one and a half months of ripening), intermediate (2 and 3 months) and old (between 5 and 6 months), the taste of which is more pronounced.

Note that Lou and Natalie work with their own sourdough, which is proof of the artisanal and fully mastered dimension of this cheese, which combines softness and character in the mouth. A subtle harmony that can be found both in the texture, almost melting, and in the taste, everything is in the subtlety. Qualities that reflect the work and know-how of a passionate couple.

Fabrice Varieras

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